Wine With Bok - 9/10 Stars
This is a new series of Chablis wines coming from Jean Dauvissat, I’m honored to have a chance to taste it upon arrival. The town of Milly is part of the historical vineyard of Chablis. This 3-hectare site is planted with vines of average age of 50 years old. The wine has gone through a long process of maturation in both stainless steel and 600 liters oak barrels. Only a total production of around 1,400 bottles for vintage 2021. The bouquet was funky, I thought I smelled earth as well as chemicals, perhaps the remnants of fertilizer found its way into the grapes? Content was affirmatively Chablis with good amount of minerality, coupled with elevated acidity, leaning towards slight sourness and mainly driven by lemon fruits. (4/2024)
Wine Enthusiast - 92 points
Fresh verbena lemon, ginger, lemongrass, white flower, rose and hay make for a complex and alluring nose. This wine is round with a mineral-laden midpalate that gives lift to honeysuckle and white tea-leaf notes in its long and elegant finish. Enjoyable now with a bit of aeration. (1/2024)
Fabien Dauvissat, following in the footsteps of his father Jean Dauvissat, assumed control of the extensive Chablis estate and initiated a series of bold transformations. While his father primarily focused on cultivating grapes across nearly 53 acres and 53 diverse parcels spanning Petit Chablis to Premier Cru across seven communes, supplying quality grapes to a major negociant house, Fabien harbored a different vision. Belonging to a generation that champions excellence over mere adequacy, Fabien set his sights on elevating the domain's status from producing good to exceptional Chablis. Embracing organic practices, he eschewed weed killers, chemical fertilizers, and systemics, relying solely on copper and sulfur.
Chardonnay, known for its prolific yields, necessitates vigilant yield management to ensure optimal ripening and sugar concentration. Winter pruning is crucial, limiting grape bunches to maintain control over yields. Yet, the journey from pruning to harvest is fraught with variables; aiming for 60 hl/ha might yield only 40 due to unpredictable factors.
Acknowledging that quality often demands risk-taking, Fabien embraces the gamble wholeheartedly. Despite reducing the domain's wine output from his father's era to his targeted levels, Fabien has swiftly garnered acclaim, establishing himself as a noteworthy winemaker despite his youth.
Specifications
| Country | France |
| Region | Burgundy |
| Sub-Region | Chablis |
| Vintage | 2021 |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Bok Rating | 9/10 Stars |
| Brand | Jean Dauvissat |
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